Capri rises from the sea at the southern entrance to the Bay of Naples, a single block of limestone a little over six kilometers long, ringed by cliffs and grottoes and crowned by Monte Solaro. It has drawn emperors, painters and writers since Tiberius ruled Rome from its heights. There are two towns: Capri, gathered around the Piazzetta above the port of Marina Grande, and Anacapri, higher, greener and quieter, on the western side of the island. Between them lie lemon gardens, old stepped paths and some of the loveliest coastline in the Mediterranean, with the Faraglioni standing offshore.
We open Capri on its quieter side, in Anacapri, at Villa Giada: a white villa of four suites in the residential enclave of Parco Silvania, with a pool among the umbrella pines, a master suite built into the volcanic rock, and a chef, butler and concierge in the house. The boat, the table at lunch and the car to the Piazzetta are arranged privately, from the first conversation to the last evening on the terrace.