Costa Rica is smaller than West Virginia, yet it shelters a remarkable share of the world’s wildlife and protects roughly a quarter of its land in parks and reserves. A spine of volcanoes and cloud forest runs between its two coasts, the Pacific to the west and the Caribbean to the east, and in the green north, above the plains of San Carlos, stands Arenal: a near-perfect cone above rainforest, rivers and hot springs. Mornings here begin with birdsong and mist on the forest; afternoons often bring rain that leaves the canopy brighter than before.
We open the country at Arenal, through Amor Arenal, an independent retreat of thirty-one freestanding casitas on the edge of a forest canyon, each with a heated plunge pool facing the volcano. It is the Costa Rica of mornings on the trail and evenings in warm mineral water, arranged privately from first conversation to flight home.
The country around the volcano asks to be explored. Hanging bridges cross the canopy by day or at twilight; guided walks find sloths, frogs and birds; river safaris drift along the Peñas Blancas; and day journeys reach the wetlands of Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge and the improbable blue of Río Celeste in Tenorio Volcano National Park. For the adventurous there are volcano treks, canyoning and white-water rafting, and at Amor Arenal the days can begin with yoga above the canyon stream and end at El Rancho with the cone in view.