The Northwest Territories reach from the boreal forest to the Arctic Ocean, a country of granite, spruce and lakes beyond counting, home to the Dene and to the bush pilots who have flown it since the 1920s. Yellowknife, the capital, stands on the north shore of Great Slave Lake, and directly overhead runs the auroral oval, which makes this one of the surest places on earth to see the Northern Lights.
Twenty five minutes southeast by bush plane, on a seventeen kilometre lake with no road to it, Blachford Lodge keeps a log lodge and five lakeside cabins, a cedar sauna and a hot tub under the southern sky, with aurora on more than 240 nights a year.