Sirai House was built just over a decade ago by the Spencer family as their own Kenyan retreat, and it remains, at heart, a family home. Kenyan artisans made it from natural, tactile materials in the foothills of Mount Kenya, and it is only ever taken whole: six suites, one household, and a team of more than 40 that includes an executive chef, guides certified by the Kenya Professional Safari Guides Association, a spa therapist and butlers.
The estate runs to 250 acres within the 33,000-acre Borana Conservancy, home to the Big Five and one of East Africa’s leading wildlife success stories. A permanent waterhole lies below the house, where elephant, buffalo, giraffe and rhino come to drink within sight of the terraces, and an underground hide beside the water brings them closer still.
Days are shaped entirely around the household. Game drives leave at first light in open-sided Land Cruisers, warm shawls across the knees, and go out again after dark for hyena, aardwolf and porcupine beneath clear skies. There are walks with the guides, rhino tracking on foot with Borana’s rangers, mountain biking at sunrise, rides on Sirai’s own horses for experienced riders, and helicopter days to the slopes of Mount Kenya to fish for trout beside an alpine lake.
Evenings belong to the house: sundowners on Pride Rock as the plains turn gold, dinner from the estate’s own garden and Jersey cows, a cellar of more than 3,000 bottles, a film in the cinema, and a fire in every suite. At this altitude the estate is free of malaria, and the nights are cool enough to want the fire.