Torfhús Retreat stands on its own on the open plain at Dalsholt, in the Golden Circle of South Iceland: a small village of turf-roofed houses looking out over volcanic country to snow-capped mountains and, on the horizon, the Langjökull glacier, the second largest in Iceland. Gullfoss is ten kilometres away and the Geysir geothermal area twelve, yet the houses keep a seclusion the busy route around them rarely allows.
The retreat takes its form from the Viking farm at nearby Stöng, in the Þjórsárdalur valley. The houses are built of local stone, reclaimed wood and turf, and their living roofs, green in summer and white under snow, let them settle into the land as Icelandic farmhouses have for a thousand years. Turf was a modest luxury for the first settlers, warmer in this climate than wood or stone alone. Inside, oak lines the sloping ceilings, the floors are heated, and the furniture is made by hand in the retreat’s own workshop or reclaimed.
Water is the point of the place. Basalt columns from the surrounding area, the same stone that stands at Reynisfjara and Svartifoss, are set into the ground beside the houses as hot pools and filled with geothermal water at 38 to 42°C, adjusted to your liking. A geothermal source less than five kilometres away heats every house and pool, and the electricity comes from the local Brúarvirkjun hydroelectric plant, part of why Torfhús belongs to the Considerate Collection of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
The days follow the light. The Icelandic horses that brought together the families behind Torfhús graze the mossy plain around the houses, breakfast and dinner are served in the Viking Langhús, and from late September to late March, with no light pollution for miles, the northern lights can be watched from the warmth of the pool.